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28/02/2014 14:17:36

Stefan
Posts: 17
Hi,

I recently bought a used RS100 and need to renew some control lines/sheets.

In this forum I found the right length for:
Spinnaker halyard: 16m
Kicker control: 8.15m

What is the best length for:
Main sheet ?
Spinnaker sheet ?
Cunningham control (con't) ?

Thanks,
Stefan




28/02/2014 15:19:09


Posts: 0
The only point that I would add to Al's excellent and thorough advice is :

1) When it gets very windy the main sheet needs to be able to reach the back of the boat.  The factory length is about 1.5m too short in my view.

2) I also added about an extra 1 metre to the kicker.  The factory length was fine for normal conditions, but not long enough to fully ease the kicker when it gets very light.  The extra length doesn't matter when it's windy.  It even makes it easier to grab the kicker when you need to.

David




28/02/2014 15:37:25

Stefan
Posts: 17
Many thanks for the quick reply !
Stefan




25/03/2014 13:54:16

Peter Blakey
Posts: 29
Hi guys, I'd also like some advice on the spinny halyard. Does the 16m length include the tapered section that runs up the bowsprit? Mine looks like a 6mm bailing twine!! with a section of D12 badly spliced in, all finished off with gaffer tape! So I'm going replace it which leads to another question. What's the best rope to use??  Cheers Pete 223



25/03/2014 15:56:44


Posts: 0
Probably a good idea to get a bit longer than 16m and gradually shorten to get the ideal length. If it is too short you will find that the retrieval line flicks the wrong side of the leech and is very difficult to get it to flick off without gybing.
 
16m sounds too short but i can't recall.
 
In my humble opinion (!) the best kite halyard is English Braids 5mm 'Sprintline' - this is a very low cost rope (£1- per metre) that seems to last for ages and has the major benefit that it has virtually no memory and never twists or tangles (unlike the 8 braid that comes as new !).
 
Personally I don't see any benefit of using a tapered halyard on a boat with relatively slow upwind speed. 



25/03/2014 16:04:48

Alistair Glen
Posts: 17
There is also the issue of the fabric of the chute mouth not being 'fit for purpose' with the supplied 8-strand braid. Whatever you get needs to be fairly soft and gelcoat-friendly otherwise you will quickly saw through into the laminate. 



25/03/2014 21:58:41

Peter Blakey
Posts: 29
Thanks Chris. I'll give the 5mm a go.  Alistair, my chute mouth is showing signs of wear  but nothing too major. I think I can fill the grooves with 2-pack resin...unless someone knows a better less messy fix??? Cheers Pete 



29/08/2018 07:18:00

Dorothee
Posts: 3
Hi - I am new to sailing - and repairing(!) - the RS100. Does anyone know if there is a list/publication of the lenght/diameters of all the control lines/sheets? Thanks / Dorothee 



29/08/2018 08:33:00


Posts: 0
Hi, I found Clive Epletts blog really useful when setting up my 100, rope lengths perfect for me and some useful tweaks.

http://www.roostersailingblog.com/guest-blog-bimbling-the-rs100-by-clive-eplett/

Stuart



31/08/2018 11:45:00

Dorothee
Posts: 3
Thanks Stuart, it's very useful! 



 
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