Hello Everybody,
I was just wondering whether it could be sensible to taper the kite halyard, say 4m on the head side and 0.5m on the retriever side. Should reduce weight, windage, resistance, etc. so many people like tapered ones, but did anybody try them on the 100? Also, which rope would you use? I'd like one that does not bite the chute mouth (like the original one does).
Alberto

Hi Alberto,

Wouldn't see any advantage at all in having a tapered kite halyard - boat is relatively slow upwind (compared to a trapeze boat) so drag is not that big an issue. Only in light winds would it make a difference and to be honest personally I would rather watch paint dry (or cricket !) !

The rope supplied as standard really is pants. Never come across a rope which is so prone to twisting and resulting in terrible birds mouths. Best thing is to replace it ASAP.

The rope I like is another low-tech and cheap rope. English Braids 5mm Sprintline (about �1.00 per meter and lasts for ages). 5mm is a good compromise although I did use 6mm for quite a while. Defy anyone to get any sort of twist with this rope - it simply refuses to twist !

Not sure the rope is the cause of the grooves in the chute mouth. These are caused by the retrieval line primarily when recovering the kite from in the water after a capsize. Best thing is to avoid letting the kite go in the water !

See you in Como.

Chris

Hello Al,
nice to hear from you! Anyway, it's even too sunny here, I wish it was a bit cooler! 
What a coincidence, I am also trying Excel control, but I modified it (I can't resist modifying things), taking the core out 4m on the head side and about 2m on the retriever side. My idea was to have a soft rope to avoid damage, and at the same time a good grip. However I made the mistake to buy the 5 mm, which goes down to 4 without the core, but feels harder to pull probably because it's stiffer in the part with the core in (that is where the blocks are). I just fitted it and had a couple of "dry" up and downs. I'll try it on the water next weekend. My next idea was tapered Excel GP, a bit costly, that's why I was asking.
By the way, against your advice I have tapered the main sheet (I told you I can't resist) and I really like it. Only I got the length sligthly wrong, but the next one will be perfect!
Best,
Alberto

Hello Chris, you were too fast to reply! However, resistance increases with the square of velocity, so the difference sholud be greater in strong winds (also considering apparent wind).
See you in Bellano!
Alberto

Hi Alberto,

Sounds a bit too complicated for me !

The trade off really is between drag and handling.

In our boat handling counts for everything in my view.

Different manufacturers ropes are different sizes so difficult to compare. However, by mistake I bought 10 lengths of 4mm Sprintline 16.70m long (I had an English Braids voucher for winning a local regatta last year) - unfortunately the 4mm line is too small and you simply couldn't grip it properly which made the kite launch / retrieval very slow.

At one point I couldn't actually get a good enough grip with the 4mm to pull the kite back on board after a big downwind swim - this is where the 6mm was much better. Probably 20 seconds faster retrieval with the thicker rope. Counts for quite a lot when the conditions get tough.

I like the idea of reducing the weight on the retrieval end by tapering, particularly if using 5mm line. I might do that, but I think I'll go for 4mm and try it without tapering to start with.  

I've measured my scruffy, snaggy, original kite halliard and it seems to be 15.7m, but that's a bit short.  Chris mentions 16.7m - is that the right length?

My old halyard was also 15.7m and I had the impression it was too tight on the kite. I started with a 17m long one, I have shortened it twice but I don't know the exact length. I'd start from 16.5 and then try without cutting to shorten it a bit at a time by moving the knot at the head.
By the way, I have now used twice the "partly coreless" Excel control halyard, and it's not bad after the break-up period when the fibers tighten. I really think that having a 5mm diameter improves the grip. The coreless part also is nice to handle because it goes kind of flat.
Alberto