Hi
I am thinking of buying a s/h RS100 after having been badly stung on my last boat (a Vortex) which turned out to have a major structural failing.
To avoid a repeat experience, what should I be checking on an RS100 before I buy?
Thanks
Andy

Hi Andy
 
Come and join the fun - it's a great boat, friendly fleet and tight racing. There's a bit of a learning curve, but we are all available to help, just ask on here.
 
Generally the boats are pretty solid. However, check the side decks are still stiff where you land on a big tack or gybe and that there're no cracks on the corners to the side deck to cockpit and floor.
 
There is a metal plate in the bottom of the mast pot - these can come loose - in which case there may be water in there and a drill bit will probably not pass thru the drain hole you will see under the boat.
 
They tend not to leak, so the hull should dry.
 
Early sail number Selden blocks were not that great. Check the block that pulls the pole out (via the chute at the front) and shine a torch on the one for the kite halyard under the foredeck by the mast. But these are nickel-and-dime maintenance issues.
 
Otherwise, normal stuff, no need for the hull to be scratched. Check foils for grounding damage etc. Condition of sails, trolley, trailer (road bases are now £750ish)
 
The RS top covers are not the most long lasting - typically you'll need to budget for a new cover. 
 
Once you've bought it, if the boat is missing one, fit a kite-halyard trip line. We'll point you to how-to in due course.
 
The circuit is now all about the 8.4 rig, but some of us do use the 10.2 for club racing. Forget the 7.2 rig. 
 
Good luck 

Andy,
Clive has got the main pints well summarised.  The 100 is a great boat and the circuit is a lot of fun.  There is no doubting that it is a good way of getting fit, but it is a rewarding boat when everything clicks.  To reiterate Clive's comments:

1) check hull for leaks, but this is not a normal problem area
2) check mast is in good condition,  it should split in two just above the spreaders.
3) check shrouds around the copper crinkles at spreader level.  Some shrouds have snapped at this point, although a new pair of shrouds is not too costly
4) check inside spinnaker chute.  The bottom of the foredeck can get sliced by the spinnaker halyard, so check for smoothness.  An easy (but messy) mend with epoxy, but good for negotiating price!
5) the cracks in gel coat on the side deck are more cosmetic in my view, often caused by trailer straps.  Mine has them, but I have no leaks in side tanks and it doesn't slow me down.  I do that!
6) cleats, pulleys and ropes do wear out on the 100, so budget for a few replacements.

Otherwise get a 100 quickly and join in the fun.  The fastest way to improve is to attend the circuit where all the fleet will willing give you dodgy and conflicting advice over a friendly beer.

David

 I'd suggest you also check for delamination between hull and deck on the edge of the gunwhale - this is not a design or manufacturing fault but can happen if the boat's been in a collision.  And check for dents in the hull - you're probably bound to find some with any epoxy foam sandwich construction boat, so don't get over-excited by them.
Then come and enjoy the fun (and brush up on your swimming at the same time!).